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A curling wave formed over an air pocket is called a plunging breaker.

A) True
B) False

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Compare shallow water and deep water waves.

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Water particles in a wave travel in a ci...

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If a surfer wishes to have a really long ride, what type of wave should he or she look for?


A) gravity waves
B) plunging breakers
C) spilling breakers
D) surf
E) swells

F) B) and D)
G) C) and D)

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An internal wave might form:


A) at a density boundary within the ocean.
B) at the boundary between the atmosphere and the ocean.
C) at the boundary between the ocean and the seafloor.
D) close to shore as it moves into shallow water.
E) only as a result of tidal activity.

F) All of the above
G) B) and E)

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Capillary and gravity waves are named for the:


A) dominant restoring force.
B) force that creates them.
C) rate at which they travel.
D) wave dispersion.
E) wave refraction pattern they create.

F) B) and E)
G) A) and C)

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A shallow water wave must form in water depth less than 100 meters.

A) True
B) False

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Describe the formation of water waves from a still ocean surface.

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Water waves are formed from a still ocea...

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Examine the five words and/or phrases and determine the relationship among the majority of words/phrases. . -Choose the one option that does not fit the pattern


A) plunging breaker
B) spilling breaker
C) surf
D) surging breaker
E) swell

F) A) and D)
G) All of the above

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Storm surges are generated by intense:


A) earthquakes.
B) high-pressure systems.
C) landslides.
D) low-pressure systems.
E) thunderstorms.

F) B) and D)
G) A) and B)

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The initiating force for a seiche is:


A) atmospheric pressure gradient over a bay or large enclosed body of water.
B) gravity.
C) interaction of the gravity of the moon, sun, and Earth.
D) seismic event.
E) surface tension of water.

F) B) and D)
G) B) and E)

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Deep water waves move faster than shallow water waves because they are not slowed by friction with the ocean bottom.

A) True
B) False

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A tsunami is considered to be a:


A) capillary wave.
B) deep-water wave.
C) reflected wave.
D) refracted wave.
E) shallow water wave.

F) A) and B)
G) B) and D)

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A wave will break when wave steepness is equal to 1/20.

A) True
B) False

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Tsunamis can be generated geological activity such as a sudden change in sea floor elevation such as an uplifted sea floor caused by a seismic event.

A) True
B) False

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The Pacific Tsunami Warning Center (PTWC) was established in 1946 to coordinate data from seismic waves in the Pacific Ocean and around the Pacific rim to issue tsunami warnings to 25 Pacific rim nations when data suggest a tsunami is eminent.

A) True
B) False

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The orbital motion of water molecules in a wave goes down to a depth equal to the wavelength divided by two.

A) True
B) False

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The vertical distance between the wave trough and the wave crest is the wavelength.

A) True
B) False

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Water waves are:


A) capillary waves.
B) longitudinal waves.
C) refracted waves.
D) orbital waves.
E) transverse waves.

F) A) and E)
G) D) and E)

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Wave energy is focused on headlands due to wave refraction.

A) True
B) False

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Examine the five words and/or phrases and determine the relationship among the majority of words/phrases. . -Choose the one option that does not fit the pattern


A) capillary
B) seiche
C) swell
D) tsunami
E) wind

F) A) and B)
G) A) and C)

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